Originally published in the Napa Valley Register on October 24, 2022.
One of the many magical reasons to live in California is our relatively mild climate, full of many pockets of microclimates. From the cool, foggy coastlines to the hot, dry summers of the Central Valley, it can sometimes feel like we have no real seasons in California. While many East Coast natives may emphatically argue that California is seasonless, one group that knows California’s seasons are farmers and seasonal farmers market shoppers.
California farmers are spread throughout the state in all its many pockets of microclimates. This means some farmers have hot, dry summers with cold, long winters, temperate coastal seasons that do not vary in temperature, or places in the South that are warm almost year-round. Each farmer adapts to their climate to grow as much produce as they can in each season.
Despite these ranges in temperature and humidity throughout California, one thing that stays constant is day length. Many crops require specific day length to transition their development from one stage to another. For example, onions will not create bulbs without a certain number of “short” and/or “long” days. Temperature can override day length in certain circumstances, but many farmers do not fight a plant’s normal pattern of development and instead plan their crop plantings according to what day length best meets the plant’s needs.
One reason I support farmers who grow their crops outdoors, rather than in greenhouses, is because outdoor-grown crops are planted at a time that best meets the plant’s developmental needs. Not only does this make more nutritious and delicious food, but it also requires less energy input. For example, greenhouses can be cooled or heated, they can use artificial lights to mimic longer days, and they are innately more consumptive on plastic and fertilizers. Certain farmers will still nurture their soil and farm sustainably in greenhouse-grown crops, but greenhouse-grown crops are often an extractive rather than a regenerative form of farming. Buying outdoor grown crops that are in season may mean you do not buy tomatoes in February, but it does mean you are shopping more sustainably.
Right now, California is wrapping up its autumn “shoulder season”. September through early November is a unique season where you can find peak summer produce such as tomatoes and eggplant alongside your winter staples like cabbage and lettuce. The summer crops were growing and establishing their fruit when the weather was warm, while the winter crops were just starting to germinate and establish themselves. By the time cooler weather in October arrives, the summer fruit had just enough early-summer heat to finish maturing, but the winter crops enjoy the cooler temperatures at the end of their lifecycle. And ta-da, you get shoulder season.
“Wait”, you may ask, “I can buy lettuce and cabbage year-round at the farmers market, so how are they a winter crop?” For that you can thank California’s coastal microclimate that grows crops such as lettuce, artichokes, cruciferous crops, and strawberries practically year-round. Coastal farmers allow California shoppers to buy cool-climate crops in the peak of summer, while still buying locally and sustainably.
Other produce is strictly seasonal, no matter where you are in California. One obvious example is citrus. California boasts some of the most spectacular, varied, and diverse citrus seasons in the country. What is even more incredible is that citrus is ripe in the peak of winter when most other sweet fruit is dormant. To enjoy a tangy, sweet, and colorful fruit in the dreary peak of winter is like storing and enjoying a little burst of sunshine when you need it most.
If you never thought of “citrus season” before, then I encourage you to make this winter your first foray into citrus. Just remember, citrus is meant to be eaten in the winter, and never in the summer. There is no comparison for the difference in taste between a locally grown California orange, lemon, kumquat, grapefruit or other, and something bought outside of California and stored or shipped so you can eat it in July. The best way to enjoy citrus season is buy shopping at farmers markets, like the Napa Farmers Market, or other local markets that are attended by California citrus farmers.
I encourage everyone to shop seasonally! There are so many benefits, not least of is how delicious in-season produce is compared to stored or shipped produce. In addition, you will find yourself eating more fresh and healthy food, and you will be supporting a more sustainable food system. The first step to shopping seasonally is to attend your local Napa Farmers Market and befriend your local farmers. Happy shopping!